Chidambaram, the temple of space, part two

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By Sharon St Joan

 

To read part one first, click here.

 

In the nineteenth century, the theory of ether was popular as a way to describe the medium through which light travels. In the early years of the twentieth century, scientists assumed that ether did exist, but later that theory was discarded. It was displaced by Einstein’s theory of relativity, which gave a different explanation of how light travels.

 

However, more recently, scientists and mathematicians have found that something was missing to make mathematical equations of the universe consistent with reality. There was some energy not being accounted for. University of Chicago cosmologist Michael Turner coined the term “dark energy” in 1998 to describe this unknown factor.

 

Modern science seems occasionally to hit upon an ancient truth. What is “dark energy”? No one knows, but it is essential to the mathematical equations that show how the universe works, so it has to be there, though no one has the tiniest clue what it is. Perhaps it is the “nothing” that is really “something” that underlies the structure of the universe. It appears that “nothing” does produces effects and that it may be a “force,” reminiscent of the “force” in Star Wars.

 

Perhaps in the vastness of space, where we imagine there is a vacuum, there lies instead a foundational reality, invisible and indefinable, a “nothing” that is not truly “nothing.” Perhaps that is the “ether” worshipped in the ancient temple at Chidambaram.

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Possibly all this has nothing at all to do with the ether at Chidambaram, or perhaps it does. Science deals with physical reality, and any reality that is not physical lies outside the realms of science.

 

At the limits of the physical world, science comes to a boundary beyond which it cannot see. It is said that 70% of the existent universe is made up of “dark energy,” and that’s a big percentage. It is this “dark energy” that is thought to cause the accelerating expansion of the universe, driving or pulling the physical universe to its end. One is reminded of the cosmic dance of Shiva that brings the end of time, and in the grand recurring cycle of time, reality, and the universe — the end follows the beginning and a new beginning follows the end.

 

The place name Chidambaram may be derived from “chit” meaning consciousness and from “ambaram” meaning sky or cloth. It may mean “sky of consciousness.”

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Since the mangrove (thillai) forest, now several kilometers away, used to come right up to the gates of the temple, the Chidambaram temple is known as the Thillai Nataraja Temple; it covers over fifty acres.

 

Hundreds of carvings of Bharathanatyam dance postures, the classical dance of Tamil Nadu, are carved in bas-relief on the stone walls of the east gopuram, or gate; in honor of the dance of Shiva.

 

The earliest reference to the very ancient Chidambaram temple is found in Tamil literature in the sixth century CE. However, the temple is believed to be very much older than this. No one knows how old. The earliest still standing construction dates back to the Chola period around the 900’s CE. It was added onto in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and much was rebuilt after Moslem armies swept through south India between 1311 and 1325 CE.

 

As they did everywhere, especially in the north and the west of India, these invading armies arrived in a whirlwind and left a trail of destruction behind them, defacing the icons of the Gods, tumbling over statues, pillars, and walls, sometimes leaving only rubble behind.

 

Their incursions into Tamil Nadu marked the farthest extent of the Moslem reach, unlike the less fortunate areas farther north and west where they remained an occupying presence, often usurping the remains of destroyed Hindu temples and turning them into mosques. Many of those temples have remained mosques until this day, and have never been returned.

 

Even at Chidambaram, the invaders stayed too long. A garrison for troops was set up within the temple during the course of the Carnatic wars. The walls were strengthened then and later reinforced again in 1740 during the war between the British and the Moslem general, Hyder Ali.

 

Stone ruins at Chidambaram still tower in the darkness, at the ends of corridors and just beyond the walls, looming as silent witnesses to this destruction that took place centuries past.

 

Still, the Thillai Nataraja Temple is a place of eternity, of the most profound serenity, beyond the warring conflicts of this world, where Nataraja dances always, untouched by the upheavals of time, his majestic, cosmic dance that leaves far behind all earthly realms.

 

Top photo: Raghavendran / Wikimedia Commons / “I, the copyright holder of this work, release this work into the public domain.” / A view of the north gopuram of Nataraja temple.

 

Second photo: BishkekRocks / Wikimedia Commons / “This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported, 2.5 Generic, 2.0 Generic and 1.0 Generic license.” / Sivaganga Temple Tank.

 

Third photo: Sharon St Joan / The mangrove forest, Pichavaram, now a few miles north of Chidambaram.

 

© Sharon St Joan, 2015

 

 

 

 

Chidambaram, the temple of space, part one

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By Sharon St Joan

 

The young priest, the son of the head priest, spoke in Tamil for three hours straight, while leading us through the temple. Night had fallen, and there were only the flickering lights and votive fires of the temple to light the way. Very charming, he spoke with great enthusiasm and immense sincerity, pointing out the various features of the temple, their history, and their meaning. It was rather amusing that he never paused to allow time for a translation, saying only, in Tamil, “You can translate it later,” as if anyone could remember three hours of commentary.

 

Even without understanding the words, one could almost grasp the meaning anyway. The sense of mystery and devotion, which was the essence of the atmosphere of the temple, did not require translation.

 

Long stone passageways led from one sanctuary to another. There were five main sanctuaries, each dedicated to a particular deity. As well as the primary shrine of Shiva, there are also shrines to his consort, Shivakami Amman, to Ganesha, to Murugan, and to Vishnu.

 

Outside, in one of the large open stone corridors, the young priest had us stand in a particular spot, by a pillar, the only place in the temple where one could view at the same time all of the gopurams, the gates, of the temple – north, south, east, and west.

 

At the end of our tour, on a stage, a group of musicians were playing for an audience gathered below. Central Tamil Nadu is the heartland of the beautiful tradition of carnatic music. The musicians would play all night. In December, further north in Madras, every year a six-week festival of carnatic music is held, one of the world’s greatest musical festivals, where in many venues all over the city there are concerts, often several a day. People come from all over the world to attend this season of music.

 

The Chidambaram temple has always been run by a community of Shaivaite Brahmins, who also serve as the priests, called Dikshitar.

 

The primary deity of the temple is Shiva, and this is the only temple in India where the primary representation of Shiva is Nataraja, the Lord of Dance. The image of Shiva dancing is an iconic symbol that brings India to mind and is recognizable all over the world. Shiva’s dance is mystical, cosmic, and has two forms – one, the ananda tandiva, is gentle and is a dance of the affirmation of life.

 

The other is the final dance that brings the destruction of the universe, when Shiva, cognizant that the world has descended into evil, performs the powerful dance that ends all existence, so that after the end, a new universe may arise, purified of evil. This is a cyclic recurrence.

 

Shiva is the creator, the preserver, and the destroyer of the Cosmos. The cycles recur, unendingly, over and over – while, on another level, there remains always the ultimate world-ground of the universe, Brahman, who is eternal, beyond existence and non-existence, who encompasses all, both form and formlessness, both change and changelessness.

 

There are secret mysteries in Chidambaram; they are spoken of as secrets, and they are not revealed, so we do not know what they may be.

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One of five Shiva temples that represent the abodes of the five elements, Chidambaram represents ether, space (akasha) or the sky. The others represent air or wind; fire; water; and earth. Four of the five are in Tamil Nadu; one is in Andhra Pradesh.

 

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At Kalahasti, in Andhra Pradesh, Kalahasti Nathar is the temple of wind, or air. At the sacred mountain of Arunachala is the temple of fire. At Trichy, Thiruvanaikaval Jambukeswara is the temple of water. At Kanchipuram, Ekambareshwar is the temple of earth or land.

 

Remarkably, three of these temples, Kalahasti, Kanchipuram, and Chidambaram were built along a straight line at exactly 79 degrees, 41 minutes east longitude. How this architectural feat was established by ancient people is a mystery.

 

The Chidambaram temple is noted for its gold plated roof over the sanctum santorum, the kanakasabha.

 

Underneath the gold-roofed sanctuary one may visit the three forms of Shiva – the “form” – or Nataraja, which is the dancing Shiva in human form, the “semi-form” – the crystal lingam, a representation of Shiva, and the third, the “formless” – it is said that this view of formless space may confer enlightenment on the worshipper.

 

Called the chitsabhai, at this site of “formlessness,” there is a curtain behind hanging strands of gold leaves. When the curtain is drawn back by a priest, one can peer in to catch a glimpse. What one sees within is nothing. There is nothing there. And this nothing, beyond all levels of existence, is the essence of Eternity, the Ultimate Reality. This is the element of ether or space, or Shiva present as the sky.

 

As an aside, it is interesting that though modern science no longer believes in ether, it once did – up until the twentieth century.

 

To be continued… To read part two, click here.

 

Top photo: Sharon St. Joan / Chennai Museum / Nataraja

 

Second photo: Wikimedia Commons / “This file is in the public domain because it was created by NASA and ESA.” / NGC 4414, a typical spiral galaxy in the constellation Coma Berenices.

 

Third photo: Raghavendran / Wikimedia Commons / “I, the copyright holder of this work, release this work into the public domain. This applies worldwide.” / The west tower of the Thillai Nataraja Temple.

 

© Sharon St Joan, 2015